Date Published: 05/16/2014
Todos Santos has changed over the years, for better or worse. The
once treacherous road from Cabo San Lucas, about 45 miles away, has been
paved, making the town too accessible to day tourists. Garish villas
are starting to mar the pristine landscape. A developer is even trying
to take over Anderson and Murphy’s ranch. But there are a few chic,
small hotels in town, like the Todos Santos Inn as well as the Hotelito, a modernist-looking property that is run by Jenny Armit, an English expat. And there’s even the Todos Santos Music Festival, which was started by R.E.M.’s former guitarist Peter Buck, a part-time resident.
But Todos Santos is still small enough that if you’re looking for someone you can simply go to the Cafe Santa Fe,
an Italian restaurant in a restored adobe building in the center of
town, which serves as its de facto country club. Both old guard and
arrivistes gather around long tables on the black-and-pink tiled floor
in the dining room. Afterward, as you stroll home, you can still hear
the sound of distant roosters and old, sputtering pick-up trucks blaring
scratchy ranchero music.